"WiFi Shield Not Present" - Help!

An ESP13 WiFi Shield thread that is well worth a read can be found at ESP-13 Web Server Serial WiFi Shield

1 Like

Just updated this article: https://github.com/blynkkk/blynk-library/wiki/ESP8266-with-AT-firmware
I hope it is easier to understand now.

Still haven’t got this working with ESP13 shield (need to flash the firmware.)
I did have success with a WeMos D1 shield, Blynking away nicely! My next step is with standalone ESP8266 to learn basics, then try to decipher the additional variables in shields.
Thnx again for your help!

Ditch the shields mate! The ESP8266 (WeMos D1 Mini or NodeMCU clones) do everything by themselves! :slight_smile:

Yes, agree!

I’ve only been playing with these for about six weeks and have very quickly come to the conclusion that standalone ESPs are the way to go, the shields aren’t worth the hassle! Downside of the WeMos though is D outputs are only 3.3v, won’t drive relay modules. I’ve got some hardware on the way for first “standalone” project, Nano + ESP + Relay turn on coffee machine (it’s for my wife, have to justify all the time in the garage :flushed:).

Says who? I drive my 5v relay’s just fine from the power supply… then the GPIO signal from the ESP is fine :slight_smile:

Similar project of mine "SONOFF Clone" - Mini-ESP8266 Power AC Relay Controller

Tried it yesterday, wouldn’t trigger the output of the relay. The red LED lights but the relay doesn’t trigger.

Will have a look again later.

Tried it again today, still no go. The red led on the relay module flickers but the 3.3v isn’t enough to throw the 5V relay. As soon as I put a level converter inline it worked perfect. (Tested on the coffee maker. The WeMos D1 shield may be limiting the current? I have some standalone ESPs on order, will try them without the shield).

Anyway, still learning as I go (a lot of this I knew 20-odd years ago … .re-learning is more apt :wink:


You should really be powering it from a seperate power source and not USB.

Follow the power part of the wire diagram below

You need to split the power so the d1 and relay are powered in parallel

In your photo… is that a level shifter in the middle?

Yep, did it. no change. Your diag is how I have it connected.

(Its the trigger logic level, 3.3v isn’t high enough for the relay I have. The diode is onboard the module, separate 5V supply from the 3.3v trigger.) No probs now that i now what I’m looking for. I’ll either use level converters or 3.3v relays from now on.

The final project will be powered direct from the mains feed through a PSU module so that I need need an external DC source.

You havn’t followed the diagram because I cant see the ground from the breadboard power connected to the D1 (which is important for creating the circuit for the signal)

1 Like

I wouldn’t connect the power from the breadboard to the Wemos!!.. now you feeding 5v into a 3.3v board.

But the shared ground IS necessary to make the circuit work properly.

The Wemos can take up to 9V because it has a linear voltage regulator on the dev board.

@Jamin True, as long as he uses the VIN port… but someone might inadvertently use the wrong power port - I should have said “potentially feeding 5v into a 3.3v board:wink:

Besides in @Bill_Donnelly case, it is just adding extra troubleshooting issues. As long as he is tethered to the USB, all he needs is the shared ground.

I would also try different signal ports, just in case PIN13 has issues, or the internal LED circuit is somehow draining a bit of current (the Wemos D1 does have an LED on PIN13, right?).

I thought that would be obvious :smile:

In saying that, I happily run my WeMos D1 mini from 5V plugged in to the 3.3V pin. :slight_smile:

In his case yes, but best practice should mean that the power from the strongest source should be used… the usb being plugged in at the same time wont hurt anything.

Ah, but so would using a shared ground… to one who isn’t… [quote=“Bill_Donnelly, post:35, topic:9565”]
still learning as I go
[/quote]… no offense intended @Bill_Donnelly :)[quote=“Jamin, post:42, topic:9565”]
best practice should mean that the power from the strongest source should be used

Again true… but not something I would toss into a power related troubleshooting fray. I try to follow the K.I.S.S. Principal, when assisting (or asking for assistance, as too often is required :stuck_out_tongue: )[quote=“Jamin, post:42, topic:9565”]
I happily run my WeMos D1 mini from 5V plugged in to the 3.3V pin. :slight_smile:

And I tend to test/use LED’s without a resistor on my UNO’s… but I wouldn’t tell others that… er, opps… just did :blush:

All is good @Jamin I will let you carry on with assistance. Sorry for butting in.

1 Like

Hahah what what? The more help, the better for everyone :smiley: :boom: :boom: :boom: :boom:

1 Like

Thnx guys. Common ground it is. Basic mistake!

In my defence while I was troubleshooting I was watching the cricket and my beer fridge is within arms reach, and it was a hot day . . . :cricket_bat_and_ball::beer::sunny:

Thnx again for your help, :+1: great advice on this and I’ve got some good tips from your other posts!

1 Like

New Zealand vs Bangladesh? :cricket:

Aussie Big Bash League. Saw that the Kiwis has a massive win after giving Bangladesh a huge start!

1 Like