@Dmitriy @vshymanskyy @Pavel
@tzapulica
guys please take a look
Man please don’t use through hole components this board can be 1/2 the size:P Anyway awesome job for the beginner. Lastly I would separate power supply from the board but that’s your call, most likely your solution wil make many people happy cause it’s idiot proof plug it and it turns on.
Looks great! Would be great to put a coin or a matchbox for a size comparison.
Hope that it will be a good selling product! What’s the planned price?
Dude this is amazing! After 5 months of tinkering all I had to show for it was hot snot on a perf board! Interested as well to know where pricing ends up.
hi @Pavel
i missed to mention the Board size , i updated the details and it’s 92X55 mm
i was designing it for my personal use in my new apartment.
also i do my best in the design to make it safer to use be this still rev. 1.
do you think many people will be willing to purchase it?
@structure7 you need to look to at my first project here you will laugh too much. BTW it still working and i use it on daily basis.
i never think of selling it , it was just designing that board that will be used in my new apartment.
@conkerkh i have used THD because i was just testing my soldering skills and that can be an easy kit also for beginners like me.
and i used the supply in same PCB to save size as my initial plan that all of the project need to be fitted in a normal wall electricity box.
and that is easy an simple to me to program it using USB to serial and later OTA after it’s fitted in the wall.
using Arduino IDE or my new favorite IDE Platformio
Well I’d be interested in knowing what your “final” BOM/PCB production cost came to! I feel like I’d still be nervous endeavoring something like this!
I love the wiring on the bottom of the board I do the same sometimes😜 And small advice for the future, you should move all the HV AC lines on one side and separate it from LV you can easily fit 3 relays on one side. Lastly decouple RST pin because you might encounter some unexpected resets.
my design used a some of expensive parts like the power supply and ,and parts with PCB with shipping of parts from multiple places (register mail not express) go almost $22.
i just make a small patch of 10 Boards , but some of the parts are sold with minimum of 50 or 100 Pcs.
that not includes the time to understand all that parts and selecting the proper MOSFET that will not overheat , learning EAGLE CAD and designing the PCB layout.
the final developing time takes me almost 2 months (my spare time of 10 hours job 6 days a week) , as i have no change to re-fabricate the board one more time or get the wrong parts.
i have change the layout many time to reach this and the problem is that i have big parts like the power supply and the relays that , and even with SMD parts only resistors and the three diodes can be SMD
and also that will not save much space as you need to keep a space to route your wires
In many cases you are routing High Voltage AC lines over, under or close to LowVoltage signal lines. It totally doesn’t seem right to me as far as I know on all power supplies there is clear separation between AC and DC and low voltage high voltage in your case there isn’t you have 240V going through your board think about it. Doing LV board is not an issue as it wont electrocute you. In your case you need to think of safety… Apart from this it’s really good job for first time so congrats!
@conkerkh as per the standers for creepage and clearance calculated
i kept my design higher than the minimum here , even if the clearance is less than that i milled the PCB to increase the creepage distance.
below is the measurements for 240 V
here for the coated clearance measurements
Safety is one of the reasons we like 5V (3.3V) RF devices.
30A 85V - 260V Wireless Relays are available on Ebay for just over six quid including delivery http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271756506044
They work well with our Blynk App Connect your existing RF devices to the internet with Blynk
@scropion86 very cool, very very cool.
the one worry as people mentione is having AC in the middle of the board, but if the slots are milled and the distance is enough, that might not be a cocnern. You might want to test isolation at some point, i ve seen it tested with 2500 and 5000v to be sure it’s save on wall chargers for instance and many failed.
Also as protection, in other devices i’ve seen a fuse and a varisor added on the AC side of things. I am no electrical engineer but people seemed to think they were very important to not burning down your house 
my version of something similar so so primitive, perfboard and off the shelf relay board, that i m now ashamed even to mention it
great job
/edit you’ve also mentioned it’s not exclusive to blynk, but, after playing with a lot of other stuff, i really can t see what you d use to control it easier 
@tzapulica this is my first time ever to make PCB , i have tested and it’s working.
a good point you mentioned is to test the isolation , unfortunately i have no access to such equipment but i will look where i can just do these test.
and again i can refine the PCB design to avoid the traces near the AC lines.
it is can be used with any solution not only Blynk as it is just ESP8266 board. , and Who can come up with something easier than Blynk , i usually use Blynk with your Node-red Websocket node.
1 Like
i will post it for you soon
1 Like
